“If it tastes half as good as it smells, this will be a home run” – Dame’s Chicken and Waffles

It's hard to precisely place the exact time in the last three years that home ownership ceased being an asset and started becoming a liability.

But it did.

In these rather Calvinist times, the ostentatious display of wealth – whether in the form of giant McMansions or over the top bits of high buck, four-wheeled Euro-steel – has transcended mere bad taste; it's an affront to the very dignity of those whose lives and livelihoods have been trampled by fate. These dour economic straits have a lot of Americans by the throat, and the rest of us looking over our shoulders. Whereas once, one could daydream about winning the lottery and buying, say, a 1,000 horsepower, quad turbo V-16 Bugatti Veyron for a cool million, instead, today one might want something a bit more downscale, rightly fearing retaliation from pissed off passersby. America is not yet Cairo, but the same tensions are in place. Better a lower profile than a higher one.

But the belt tightening isn't just limited to "In Your Face" conspicuous consumption; it comes with a metaphysical component. And statistics prove it. Fine dining out; casual dining in.

All of which suits me just fine. The fewer pretenses served with my lunch, the better. Comfort food = soul food = happiness.

And for a weekend breakfast, there is no better place to do the whole comfort food thing than Dame's Chicken and Waffles in Durham.

Chicken? Waffles? Together?

Ah, yes. Like the holy combination of chocolate and peanut butter, fried chicken and waffles (with copious amounts of maple syrup) provide for a beautiful study in contrasts. The light, crispy waffle stands aside as a near perfect partner to crunchy, buttermilk fried chicken.

Her Imperial Majesty and I opted for a Quilted Buttercup, a fried chicken breast sandwiched between two sweet potato waffles and an optional side of wings. The effect was superb. Served with a "shmear" of maple and candied pecan butter, the dish nicely balances both sweet and savory. The light fluffiness of the waffles was a perfect counter balance to the heartiness of the perfectly fried but in no way greasy chicken. With large portions, her Imperial Majesty and I split one order and walked away well sated.

The entrée came with a side of mac and cheese which was okay but not great. But why carp? It didn't say Dame's Mac and Cheese on the door. No, it's all about the chicken and waffles and they are outstanding.

We got there just in time to snag a spot at the bar ('natch). When we left, it was lined out the door, as well it should. It was indeed, a home run.

You know, no less than the New York Times said that there are 41 places in the world that one must simply visit in 2011 and Durham, NC made the list. I wonder if Dame's Chicken and Waffles is the reason. I'd like to think so.

Dame's Chicken and Waffles

317 W. Main Street

Durham, NC 27701

(919) 682-9235

dameschickenwaffles.com

Cuisine: Chicken and Waffles

Rating: *****

Prices: $

Atmosphere: Urban hip

Noise level: moderate

Open: Mon, Sun 11 am - 3 pm; Tue-Thu 11 am - 8 pm; Fri 11 pm - 12 am

Reservations: Of course not.

Other: yes, they take plastic

We rank restaurants in five categories: Extraordinary***** Excellent**** Above average*** Average** Fair*